... And Then There Was Jordan

They say “good things come to those who book tickets”… it’s a very true story.

As it was, I was late in planning my trip this year as I had been taking care of mum in London.

Just over 2 years ago I made a commitment to self: a challenge that scared me enough to motivate me to exercise through winter, so I could channel ways to cope with the stress of WFH, together with the lack of movement that comes from perpetual zoom calls.

I signed up for the Baviaans Camino and for the first time in my life set a decent goal. 100km hike that I needed to be fit and kitted for. It was on that trip I heard about Jordan.

Last year we chose Grays Pass in the Drakensberg as the pilgrimage to switch off and get high altitude perspective from 3100m, and this year, the stars aligned on my decision to bank Patagonia and rather head to a war zone for solitude. Apt for 2024 it seems.

It so happened I booked on the eve of my colleague’s news of a brain tumour, the perfect catalyst to make my personal promises to self sever all procrastination and excuses and just press “pay”. If there was ever a time to acknowledge the bottom line: that life is just short. Buy the art, drink the wine, dance in the coffee shop. Hike 100km across the Jordanian desert with a donkey. Book the ticket!

Armed with excess luggage after going back to London and packing up, I headed to the Middle East, (with 3 hefty suitcases and my backpack), for honestly such a beautiful and special trip.

Taken the same week of my mother’s passing, it was the ideal tonic and place to recalibrate. The timing of everything was perfect, serendipitous and powerful that week… doing what is in your calling lines up all the moments.

I am most grateful it was booked, as is Jordan. Wars don’t do tourism any favours and it’s extremely saddening to witness the effects on people and business and the industry as a whole.

I spent 2 days solo in Amman scouring ancient ruins and enthralled in history, food and culture - led by fascinating and inspiring Jordanian and Palestinian folk who indulge your interests and welcome you on every safe corner. I even found my daily grind with milk lab made by Moscow (aka cool for Mohammed).

I then joined a hiking group for a traverse from Dana to the ancient city of Petra (a wonder of the world). We spent 4 nights wild camping with the most incredible Bedouin support crew and led over the hills and mountains by Atul and his donkey Tarrad, who carried our water and navigated the way. My mind was refreshingly opened by our brilliant, knowledgeable and humorous guide Mutaz and the pack of us that became friends and habibas at the edge of vastness on many a big and bold rock.

We laughed, we shared, we walked. It was spectacular!

We even drank Jordanian wine! They have been making it since the Nabatean era. Fun was had!

Petra is extraordinary and life changing, as was the Lamb Mansaf for dinner. Good grief!

I ventured after our rural adventure to find the most incredible silence in the Wadi Rum desert and stayed in what looked like I was on Mars - there was not even a cricket, but there was a tahini cauliflower recipe I asked for. I walked under the 7 Pillars of Wisdom and raced past camels in a dune jeep with a nice crazy Arab, listening to my all new favourite track of Bedouin chants and sand drifting!

A dip in the Dead Sea with sonic booms reverberating had me relieved to get home without hassle, after a lemon ice and fish dish I will remember forever, if not the luggage bill!

What an experience Jordan, Shoukran.